It’s early morning on board. The fjord lies as smooth as glass, the engine hums quietly – and from the kiosk comes that familiar smell that makes both commuters and tourists look up: freshly baked pancakes - also called "Svela".
For many, they’re as much a given as the life jacket and the timetable. A little break in the journey. A moment of everyday happiness. No one knows this better than Fjord1 veteran and ship’s captain Karstein Holm (70):
– I’ve been sailing ferries for decades, and I can promise you one thing: Where there’s a ferry, there must be svele, says Holm with a laugh, as he looks out over the water.
From the villages of Sunnmøre
The story of the svela isn’t recorded in major cookbooks. It lives on in coffee cups, on ferry decks – and in the memories of generations of passengers.
According to Holm, there’s little doubt where it has its roots:
– Svela originated in north-western Norway, and particularly in the villages of Sunnmøre.
He explains that coastal folk have always been practical. When large numbers of people needed to be served in a short space of time, there was a need for something that was easy to make, affordable – and filling:
– Svela was quite simply a convenient and tasty product. You got a small meal, something that made you feel full, and at the same time tasted good with coffee.
The ferries made svela immortal
It was, however, the ferry service that elevated svela from village fare to the cultural icon it is today.
In 1971, the svela was introduced on board an MRF ferry. An employee named Steinar Slettestøl brought svela batter to work and began serving it to both the crew and passengers.
– It was an instant success! What started small quickly became a major project, and the svela spread to several routes and ferries within the company.
Svela was eventually featured in MRF-nytt, and major routes such as Molde–Vestnes were quick to offer svela on board.
When Fjord1 later took over the baton, the svela came along with it – and quickly found its way across county borders.
– There’s no doubt that this is a flavour people like, says Holm.
But he doesn’t think it’s just about the taste:
- That cup of coffee with a svela as you cross the fjord… that’s when you can really enjoy the journey. That’s when you get a bit of peace. For many, this is the one quiet moment of the day, when you just sit down and relax.
Swears by butter cream
When it comes to the right topping for a svela, Karstein is dead serious:
– Brown cheese can be a bit exotic for tourists, he says with a wry smile.
– Personally, I swear by butter cream. But both work incredibly well, he laughs – before concluding:
– It’s up to the individual.
Nevertheless, a clear technical clarification quickly follows from the veteran:
– The buttercream has to be just right to be approved. It should be light and fluffy, and easy to work with – like a perfect egg mixture. The sugar shouldn’t crunch; it must be completely incorporated. This is absolutely essential.
And the pastry, then?
– It mustn’t be too thick. When you fold it over, the pastry should be intact at the back edge. That’s important!
-The right pancake grip is essential
Karstein has previously spoken on national TV about what constitutes the correct pancake grip.
Watch the full pancake interview (in Norwegian) from the 2018 NRK programme ‘Norge Nå’ aboard the MF Romsdalsfjord here: Norge nå - NRK TV
-You can take away the diesel, but not the svela
Today, ferries are quieter, greener and more high-tech than ever before. But the svela remains.
– You can take the diesel away from us, but not the svela, says Holm, laughing again.
For him, the svela is a living part of Fjord1’s soul and coastal culture. When the ferry leaves the quay and passengers head into the lounge, it’s often with a svela as a specific goal:
– If you’ve driven a long way, there’s something simple and satisfying about a svela. What’s more, you don’t have to worry about eating it; it’s easy to eat and suits all connections regardless of crossing time.
If you buy a svela at the kiosk, it’s usually wrapped up.
– These days, the svela works very well as a takeaway, laughs Holm before concluding:
– As long as there are ferries on the fjord, the svela has to be there. It still has many good years ahead of it.